Showing posts with label history. Show all posts
Showing posts with label history. Show all posts

Monday, December 21, 2015

Christmas is Coming...


Only 4 more sleeps until Christmas, who’s excited? Meeee! I hadn’t been feeling particularly festive until the last couple of days, maybe it’s the warm weather, but now most of the jobs are done, the kids have finished school, and the decorations are up I’m getting in the spirit.

Mid winter has been celebrated for centuries around the world. Early Europeans rejoiced on the darkest days of winter, The worst was behind them and they could look forward to longer days with more sunlight. 

A winter's day

Scandinavians celebrated Yule from December 21st. Large logs would be brought in to the home and the people would feast until the logs burned out, and they believed that each spark from the log represented a calf or piglet born in the coming year.

Yule log

The Roman’s celebrated the festival of Saturnalia which took place from December 17th until a few days after Solstice. 
The feast, in honour of Saturn, their god of agriculture, was a hedonistic celebration with plentiful food and drink where the normal social order was turned on it’s head. Masters became slaves and slaves would command control of the city. The feast of Juvenilia was also observed around the same time, honouring the children of Rome, and the upper classes celebrated the birthday of Mithra, the infant god of the unconquerable sun.

Looks like a crazy party!

The birth of Jesus was not celebrated by early Christians, their main holiday was Easter. Church officials decided that his birth should be instituted as a holiday. As they did not know the date he was born, Pope Julius I chose December 25th. It is believed that this date was chosen to absorb the traditions of the pagan festivals.

The Nativity

Traditionally, Christmas became a Christian festival around 675AD when St. Boniface cut down an Oak tree in front of some newly baptised Christians. The Oak, sacred to Pagans, split in to four pieces from which grew an evergreen tree. It was symbolic of the death of Paganism and the establishment of Christianity.

St. Boniface cutting the Oak

In 17th century Europe Oliver Cromwell and his Puritan forces took over England and tried to rid the country of decadence. As a result Christmas was cancelled. After much protest, it was finally reinstated by Charles II.

The Puritan view travelled across to the United states with the Pilgrims and from 1659 - 1681 Christmas was outlawed in Boston, with anyone breaking the law by showing Christmas spirit being fined five shillings. 

Bah Humbug!

In the 19th Century, A Christmas Carol was written by Charles Dickens. During this era, many children lived in poverty and were mistreated by their elders. The message of charity and goodwill to all men spread through America and Victorian Europe and encouraged a day of peace with family and friends, decorating trees, giving gifts and sending cards to each other.

A Victorian Christmas 

The traditional gift giver, Saint Nicholas, is the patron Saint of sailors, merchants, archers, repentant thieves, children, brewers, pawnbrokers and students. He was born in Asia Minor (present day Turkey) and lived  from 270-343AD. His wealthy parents, who raised him as a devout Christian, died in an epidemic, and following Jesus’ words to ‘sell what you own and give the money to the poor’ he used his whole inheritance helping those in need and became known for his generosity. 

St. Nicholas

One story tells of a poor man with 3 daughters. Having no money to offer dowries, they had little chance of finding a husband and were destined to be sold in to slavery. On three different occasions, bags of gold were thrown in to the house through an open window. They landed in stockings and shoes hanging by the fire to dry, and this began the custom of leaving stockings to be filled with gifts. Another retelling the story describes the bags of gold as balls. Finding an orange in your stocking is said to represent a golden ball given by St. Nicholas. 

Stockings by the fire

The tradition of the Christmas tree dates back many years, Evergreen trees have always had special meaning for people during the winter months. The belief was that winter was caused by the sun (a god) becoming sick. As he grew weaker the days became shorter. The Winter Solstice (December 21st or 22nd) was celebrated as it meant that the sun god had started to get well again and the light would start to return. 

Evergreen 

The Egyptian god Ra, wore the sun on his crown. They celebrated his recovery by bringing green palm rushes symbolising the triumph of life over death in to their homes. 

The Sun God Ra

The Romans saw the solstice as the beginning of the return of their crops and decorated their homes with evergreen boughs. And the Druids in Europe decorated their temples with evergreen branches which symbolised everlasting life. 

Hanging Fruit on evergreens

Ancient Germanic people tied fruit and candles to evergreen branches in honour of their god Woden, the god that gave us our Wednesday or Woden’s day, the green trees symbolising eternal life. 

Merry Christmas!

Whichever point in history our traditions were taken from, each festival and celebration centres around the solstice and the return of the sun. In the days before power this was an important time and signified the start of a new year, the time to make plans, and celebrate longer days and the return of the light. 

(Don’t miss our own solstice themed celebration happening with Lesley’s Re-Birth of the sun challenge!)


However you’ll be celebrating and whatever your traditions, we hope you have a peaceful season and a Happy New Year!



Wednesday, December 9, 2015

Color me enchanted! A book review...

I sat down to write this post on 2 books in my art/inspiration/history library that I adore. And found a new book by  the author, Victoria Finlay. I only wonder if I can wait until the holidays to purchase it. You know its on my list right away! OK - back to the regularly scheduled post... 

When I need a go to gift for a friend I turn to the work of author Victoria Finlay. Almost everyone I know would find either of her first 2 books interesting. Gems, history, drama, folktales, color, pigments, each, science, paint, art.... see what I mean? I wanted to introduce these to you, for your list or as gifts... since it IS that time of year. 

First: Color: a natural history of the palette. 

This book is a treat. Divided into the colors of the rainbow it delves into origins, materials, organic sources, scientific methods, history, travel, culture... The author shares her travel tales, her detailed and thorough research, both historical and cultural. Its a behind the scenes look into things that are so familiar and remain a complete mystery!

Color by V. Finlay. Available here

From the back cover: 

  • Cleopatra used saffron - a source of the color yellow - for seduction... 
  • Extracted from an Afghan mine, the blue "ultramarine" used by Michelangelo was so expensive he couldn't afford to buy it himself.
  • Since ancient times, carmine red - still found in lipsticks and Cherry Coke - has come from the blood of insects. 
Snippets from "Color..."
"If you open up a box of paints, there are numerous such stories hidden inside it. There are stories of sacredness and profanity, of nostalgia and invention, of secrecy and myth, of luxury and texture, of profit and loss, of fading and poison, or cruelty and greed, and of the determination of some people to let nothing stop them in the pursuit of beauty." ( page24)


Second: Jewels- A secret History

Jewels by V. Finlay available here
Diamonds, rubies, emeralds, amber, jet... 
Im sure you have heard of the infamous and tragic Hope diamond, of Mikimoto and the first cultured pearls. But what of Whitby, the town jet built? The emerald city of Sikait? The amber washing championships on Jantar, Poland? I didn't think so! These and more tales await you in the pages of "Jewels"! I am the first to admit that I am a "gemstone junkie" and that I most frequently use stones in my beadwork. But this is a multicultural exploration into places, gems, folklore...  that appeals to me on so many levels!
Snippets from "Jewels"

And most recently: The BRILLIANT history of Color in Art

Finalys' newest! Im so excited! On Amazon... 
Looking inside this one on Amazon, I may have actually sealed out loud in excitement. COLOR and ART HISTORY. I am in heaven. Cave paintings! Tyrian purple and Egyptian blue, gilded Medieval painting, sepia photography... 
from the back cover: 
  • Cleopatra made purple the royal color of the Western world. Her favorite was made with rotten shellfish soaked in urine. 
  • Cobalt blue was the key evidence in a infamous trial  involving Nazi collaboration and a forged Vermeer. 
  • Van Gogh used chrome yellow beautifully in his paintings - but he probably shouldn't have eaten it. 
( I searched for this last night at Barnes & Noble. To look, maybe to bring it home... Sadly their one copy wasn't not the shelf. So for now - it remains on my Wish list.) 

I know that was a very biased, enthusiastic review. But if all I achieve is to have you look up these books and consider them... they speak for themselves. Great gifts - for yourself, or your art/jewelry/history/folklore friends! 


Friday, January 23, 2015

Putting my own "stamp" on things...

I inherited my Dad's boyhood stamp collection. When I was a kid, sorting the stamps, deciphering foreign names of countries, identification... it was a treasure hunt. To me the stamps were miniature works of art, exquisitely detailed, hinting at history and events beyond my awareness. They evoked travel - would I ever see the places where this slip of paper had originated? These stamps encouraged my inquisitiveness, and my desire to learn, to experience...
One of the containers... 
I still have the stamps. I let go of the bulky book that was largely blank pages... Dad never really took to the whole hobby thing, and I didn't make huge progress in filling the pages either. I have stamps from countries that no longer exist. Its a window into history, a link to the past - both mine and the world's.

 Here are a few favorites:  

Folk costumes from Poland, report Greek myth stamps from Greece,
Classical monochromatic beauties from France, a few gems from down under. 

A childhood favorite - Austrian  farm girl; florals from Hungary, USSR, Gabon, Congo, San Marino;
Czech flora and fauna; Irish blackbird. 


Warning: if you are a hardcore philatelist, what you are about to see may shock you. 

I think stamps are a natural choice for mixed media pieces. The scale is perfect. I appreciate a little weathering, a postmark - they allude to travel, time, distance... a history. If you search for stamps in jewelry you will find a million and one offerings using resin and/or glass tiles. Logical first step - I have been there. These three new mixed media pieces are still on my work table waiting for necklace pairings. I started with a mother-of-pearl donut, designed a metal backing, and created a frame for the stamp. Attachments are made with either tabs or waxed linen. The stamps are sealed with Diamond glaze for durability and protection. 
Simple stamp under resin; three new mixed media pieces - mother-of-pearl bezels and copper/brass backings. 
These polymer pieces debuted at Beadfest last August. The settings are molds made from vintage stampings. Resin seals and secures the stamp image. The polymer color palettes are drawn from  the stamp art itself. ( I'll be teaching a similar class* at Beadfest in April.)
Polymer focals showcasing stamps, sealed with resin.  ( Mexico, USA, Italy, Malaysia)
And a ring, a class sample, just for fun. 

If you think stamps are for you... you don't have to start lurking in antique stores and flea markets. I personally doubt that any of my Dad's stamps are hidden treasures worth wagons of money... but I have seen Charade!  ( Audrey Hepburn, Cary Grant, stamps, Paris... whats not to love?!) There are plenty of stamps available now that are lovely and inspiring: 


Souvenir 'stamps' from the National Gallery of Art. I adore Matisse!
I've been holding onto this sheet for... umm... over 25 years! 

Current stamps in circulation. Images from USPS.com

The Breast Cancer awareness stamp was perhaps the first one I used in a piece of jewelry. I was teaching full time, maybe 20 years ago - and I made a pin, a sterling frame for the stamp depicting Artemis. It was for my dear friend and colleague who had just successfully battled breast cancer and won! 
The USPS lists this information about the stamp artist/designer: 
As of June 2014, the stamp has raised over $78.9 million for breast cancer research. By law, 70 percent of the net amount raised is given to the National Institutes of Health and 30 percent is given to the Medical Research Program at the Department of Defense.Designed by Ethel Kessler of Bethesda, MD, the stamp features the phrases, “Fund the Fight” and “Find a Cure” and an illustration of a mythical “goddess of the hunt” by Whitney Sherman of Baltimore. 

As an artist, I find the design  process of stamps fascinating. They need to be easy to "read" from a distance, but rather detailed for their size. Many commemorate people, places, events, and some more recent motifs raise funds for research and conservation. The USPS site/store lists these and more available for purchase. And - for artwork they are rather affordable. ( As stamps, they are kind of expensive... LOL)  

Have you ever considered stamps as art? As jewelry? I'd love to hear how you put your 'stamp' on things. (Had to do it... ) 


Philately (/fɪˈlætəl/ fi-la-tə-lee) is the study of stamps and postal history and other related items. Philately involves more than just stamp collecting, which does not necessarily involve the study of stamps. It is possible to be a philatelist without owning any stamps. For instance, the stamps being studied may be very rare, or reside only in museums.

* My Spring 2015 Beadfest class info can be found here




Friday, September 19, 2014

Freeform Friday: a visit to Downton

Warning: this post may have you craving scones and high tea. You may have a compulsion to dress for dinner. However, for the rare few who have NOT watched PBS's Downton Abbey, there may be a few small spoilers. Beware. 

This is how the day began: tea with the Aunties. My friend Angela had made me an honorary aunt to her daughters Jordan and Ellie ( my students of 10 years...).  It was a sumptuous spread, only missing the Devon clotted cream*, sadly. 
Winterthur - HF Dupont's home from his birth in 1880 to his death in 1969. 
We headed off to Winterthur, historical house/museum in Wilmington DE. This house was the duPont family estate, founded in 1837 and made public by H.F. duPont in the 1950's. Tours are available of the house, still furnished in the duPont's style, and the museum hosts a large collection of decorative arts, dating from 1640-1860. The garden's  are also a showpiece, and seasonal tours are a must. 

Winterthur is currently hosting an exhibit of the costumes from PBS's Downton Abbey. The exhibit drew parallels between the two countries/lifestyles/families very well. A lovely thoughtful synthesis of history and pop culture. 

But really - its all about the dresses... I was excited to see things up close, and reading some of the details - so impressive. The costume department had 7 weeks to create all the fashions for a season. In many cases a dress was inspired by a piece of period accurate lace/beading/fabric and replicated to match from there. (So while this post isn't "art jewelry" per se - its personal adornment, bead embroidery, and so much inspiration!) Without further ado... 

Cora's dress - hard to imaging wearing it - it was SO ethereal. Amazing beaded front panel. 
Cora again. This long velvet duster was a dark olive and truly the thing I coveted most in the entire exhibit.  The center panel on the skirt is off center because they only had so much antique beaded motif to work with, so they designed it in regardless. 
Wearing this to dinner? I can see the need for a Lady's maid to do touch ups and mend loose beads. 
Just beadwork. Because it was so stunning. The black/white/silver piece on the left made me gasp out loud. No exaggeration. The top right dress was worn by Cousin Rose - flapper style sheet covered in bugle beads. The bottom purple number was worm by Matthew's mother if I remember correctly. 
Dame Maggie Smith as the Dowager Countess. Need I say more? 
Mary and Matthew's  attire from the fateful night - of their proposal. So bittersweet.  This dress was oddly unembellished, just multicolored seed beads at the ruffles edges and a pendant piece stitched on as a focal in the front.
Edith. Poor Edith. Details from her wedding gown. 
Sibyl, ever the fashion forward sister stunned the room when she appeared in this for dinner. It was pants! Harem pants of silk... but this embroidered bodice was more stunning to me. 
Lady Sibyl again - an embroidered velvet number styled after Parisian trends  of the 20's. 
If you are near Wilmington DE between now and January - I highly recommend this exhibit. It was a lovely fan moment to see the costumes yet it successfully transported me back in time. There were pieces on display from the employees as well, but as I was focused on embellishments... "Service" was accurately represented, in all their contrast. 

My mother taught my sisters and me to embroider in different decorative stitches when we were quite young. Its a skill we have all retained to varying degrees. That combined with my new love of seed beads... hmm. Ideas are brewing. I'll let them steep a while... ( puns intended)

*Cream tea:  The Devonshire (or Devon) method is to split the scone in two, cover each half with clotted cream, and then add strawberry jam on top. Traditionally it is important that the scones be warm (ideally, freshly baked), and that clotted (rather than whipped) cream and strawberry jam, rather than any other variety, are used. Butter is generally not included, and the tea should be served with milk.


Whatever your plans for the "weekend" - have a good one!
Jenny



*Cream tea: There are regional variations as to how a cream tea should preferably be eaten. The Devonshire (or Devon) method is to split the scone in two, cover each half with clotted cream, and then add strawberry jam on top. Traditionally it is important that the scones be warm (ideally, freshly baked), and that clotted (rather than whipped) cream and strawberry jam, rather than any other variety, are used. Butter is generally not included, and the tea should be served with milk.



Friday, August 22, 2014

Folklore Friday:

Hello! 
As you read this - I am at Bead Fest in Philly. I am selling, buying, chatting, teaching... and there may be coffee and wine in there somewhere too. Please enjoy this post; it was the first in a series of folklore/birthstone pieces I wrote for Beads of Clay. I look forward to reprising these, and finishing the zodiac here on AJE! 



Peridot, the August birthstone...


Image credit: The Collector

The green of summer! Lush plants blooming in the sunshine! Peridot gets its green color from iron, and is always green. Its a fragile stone ( 6.5 on the Moh's scale) softer than all of the other translucent gems; only one step harder than glass! Its formed from olivine, and like diamonds is formed under the Earths's crust - brought to light by volcanic activity. 

The name stems from the Greek "Peridona" meaning plentiful. This refers to the attributes of peridot - not its availability. It was believed to protect the wearer from evil spirits and adversity.  It is believed to be a stone of increase, bringing warmth, prosperity and well being to the wearer. 

My peridot palette: Peridot chips in the center, paired with my ceramic pendants in related hues and silks from Marsha Neal Studio.

A few historical notes on Peridot: 



  • The oldest examples are Egyptian, dating back to 2000 BC. Peridot was plentiful on the island of Zabargad, off the Egyptian coast in the Red Sea. 
  • The Romans called peridot "Emerald of the evening" as its color is more intense in gentle light. 
  • Medieval metal smiths were introduced to Peridot after the Crusades "imported" goods from the Middle East. It was used in reliquaries and ecclesiastical items like the Shrine of the Magi in Cologne Cathedral. (on the left)
  • Peridot is mined in Burma, China, Arizona, and Pakistan - where new mining in the 1990's created a resurgence and renewed interest in the stone. 
  • The largest faceted specimen? The Smithsonian in DC - toping the scales at 310 carats! (opening pix)
  • In 2003 NASA observed large areas of the planet Mars covered in peridot! So much for the 'red' planet...


Thanks for reading! Let me know what you think and how you used peridot in your designs. 
Jenny
www.jdaviesreazor.com

Sources: 

Friday, March 21, 2014

Folklore Friday - Amethyst

(Hello all - I am reprising a series of folklore posts I started a few years back for the Beads of Clay blog. I was researching gemstones/birthstones, their folklore, symbolism, and any famous - or infamous - specimens. While I am off a month as to the birthstones calendar - let me start here with Amethyst, February's Birthstone. Enjoy!)

Folklore Friday - Amethyst.
Species: Quartz
Color: Purple, violet, pale red-violet
Chemical composition: SiO, silicon dioxide
Crystal system: (Trigonal), hexagonal prisms
Hardness: 7 (Mohs scale)
Amethyst location and depositsThe most important deposits are in Brazil, namely the "Palmeira" amethysts of Rio Grande do Sul and the "Maraba" amethysts of Para. Other deposits are found in Bolivia, Canada, India, Madagascar, Mexico, Myanmar (Burma), Namibia, Russia, Sri Lanka, United States (Arizona), Uruguay and Zambia.


Amethyst is a variety of quartz which occurs in transparent light to dark purple. The darker more intense colors are more valuable than the lighter smoky or lavender color. Dark rich, royal colors of amethyst have been treasured by kings and queens for centuries and can be traced back to the Minoan period in Greece (c. 2500 B.C.). During the 15th century the French fleur-de-lis brooch could only be worn by the Royal family on ceremonial occasions. (Logical as purple has long been a color associated with royalty - due to the nature of the rare dyes used to create the color.)

My amethyst palette: silks from Marsha Neal Studio, ceramic pendants by ... me. 
  • The name comes from the Ancient Greek a- ("not") and μέθυστος methustos ("intoxicated"), a reference to the belief that the stone protected its owner from drunkenness. The ancient Greeks and Romans wore amethyst and made drinking vessels of it in the belief that it would prevent intoxication. 
  •  Medieval Bishop's wore amethyst rings - in an effort to keep these powerful men sober and in control of their faculties!
  • Amethyst beads have been unearthed in Anglo Saxon graves in England. 
  • In the Egyptian book of the dead, instructions are given for placing heart shaped amethysts on the body of the deceased.
  • By far my favorite treasure I have discovered about amethyst? This myth from Ancient Greece - by way of a romantic French troubadour of the 16th century : 

    Dionysus, the god of intoxication, of wine, and grapes was pursuing a maiden named Amethystos, who refused his affections. Amethystos prayed to the gods to remain chaste, a prayer which the goddess Artemis answered, transforming her into a white stone. Humbled by Amethystos's desire to remain chaste, Dionysus poured wine over the stone as an offering, dyeing the crystals purple.
    Variations of the story include that Dionysus had been insulted by a mortal and swore to slay the next mortal who crossed his path, creating fierce tigers to carry out his wrath. The mortal turned out to be a beautiful young woman, Amethystos, who was on her way to pay tribute to Artemis. Her life was spared by Artemis, who transformed the maiden into a statue of pure crystalline quartz to protect her from the brutal claws. Dionysus wept tears of wine in remorse for his action at the sight of the beautiful statue. The god's tears then stained the quartz purple.

Portrait of Roman Emperor Caracalla;  Amethyst intaglio, ca. 212 CE. 
From the treasury of the Sainte-Chapelle in Paris.

Attributes of Amethyst: 

  • thought to be helpful in overcoming addiction. 
  •  used for hearing disorders, insomnia, headaches and other pain. 
  • Worn to make the wearer gentle and amiable.
  • Amethyst powers include: dreams, healing, peace, love, spiritual upliftment, courage,  protection against thieves, and happiness.
The largest Amethyst geode in the world,
The Empress of Uruguay,
resides in The Crystal Caves in Australia. (zivajewels.com)
Thanks to WikipediaBernardine.com and gemselect.com

Stay tuned for more folklore - coming soon!
What's YOUR favorite gemstone? 


Jenny


www.jdaviesreazor.com