Setting Tiny Stones

Recently on my blog I was asked how I manage to set such small stones, such as this 4mm peridot in my daisy stacker ring, so I thought I would share a few tips and tricks that I have learnt.

Daisy Stacker Ring With Lampwork by Jen Cameron 

The first thing I do when setting small stones is cut the bezel wire in half with very sharp scissors. I do this because the smallest bezel wire I can get is 3mm tall and when setting tiny stones this is much to big. The wire does tend to curl up but I just use my flat pliers to gently straighten it back out.

Cutting the Bezel Wire

Next, using this neat little gizmo called a mitre jig that I learnt about from one of my favorite blogs Cinnamon Jewellery (Tracy's work is just amazing as is her blog where she shares so much fantastic information, a really great source for learning), I clamp the bezel wire and file one side flat.

My Beloved Mitre Jig

Most of the tiny stones I use are 3-5mm in size because I use my bail making pliers to form my bezels, and they are 3mm and 5mm in diameter. Making bezels this way is a lot less fiddly than trying to wrap the wire around the stone and a lot easier then trying to measure the bezel wire to the correct size. I wrap the wire around the end of the pliers and press down at the join to leave a mark so I know where to cut.

Bail Making Pliers

After cutting and filing the marked edge I rewrap it around the bail making pliers and check that the edges are flush then I gently flatten the join with my flat pliers to hold it in place, once I am happy that the edges meet perfectly with no light showing through I solder the piece. Because it is so small I always use easy solder and go as slow as possible, it really is easy to melt these little things!

Flatten the Join 

Once soldered and pickled I reshape it on the bail making pliers, if by some chance it is a touch too small I then use my round nose pliers to stretch it, by simply placing it onto one side of the pliers and twisting and pushing it further down the tapered end of the pliers to stretch it. Alternatively if I am making an oval shaped bail I would place the bail onto the tip of pliers in the above photo while they were closed and then I would gently open them to elongate the bail.

Made Using Tiny Stones

Once the bezel is a perfect fit for the stone I solder it onto the backing plate, or as in the photo above, onto a coin and continue setting as I would a larger piece. Hopefully this has answered the question!

Bits of NikNats

Artisan Jewellery by Niky Sayers

Soldered Wire Prong Bezels

On Saturday, I went up to Sue Sachs studio to take a bezel workshop.  This wasn't just any bezel workshop, it was on setting stones that were unusually shaped.  I asked specifically for this workshop because I have a large collection of cabochons and flatbacks that aren't round or oval.

Sue had a selection of samples laid out for us, including this massive wire prong bezel pendant.  Right away I knew I was going to make a bezel using this technique.  

I brought my entire collection of crystal and fossil cabochons with me but ultimately decided I would set this pretty quartz piece.  I also used the sterling silver wire I already had on hand, which included 16 gauge and 20 gauge (I would not use 20 gauge in the future though as it would need to be work-hardened to be secure).  I do plan to add 18 and 14 gauge to my supplies in the near future.

The first step was to create a base that I would then attach all the prongs to.  I used the 16 gauge wire for this.  Once the ends were filed, I soldered the wire together.

I then cut several lengths of 20 gauge wire and created balled headpins to use as the prongs.

I eyeballed the length of the headpins and cut them down in size and soldered the first two onto the base.

Then the final two prongs were measured and soldered on.

I noticed along the way I must have goofed and I had to flip the base around.  Oops.  But it was still going to work!

I went with a simple arch for the bail.  I also realized at this point that the bezel looked kind of like a baby reaching out to be held.  Hehe.

I gave the bezel a Liver of sulfur bath and then I slid the quartz in and folded the prongs over.  

This was an easy and fun way to set a stone!  Colin is going to finish getting my torch set up in the workshop so that I can begin making these at home.  

What's your favorite way to set unusually-shaped stones?

Happy Beading!

Diana P.

Suburban Girl Studio LLC

Guest Post - Manda Jane Rodwell - A Dandelions Tale

Today talented jewellery designer Manda Jane Rodwell joins us as a guest blogger and shares some of the trials and tribulations of transforming ideas into reality.

I can't tell you how excited and honoured I feel to be here as guest designer!  So a really big "hello" to you all!

Lesley Watt is such a talented artist and one that I very much admire and look up too.  So, when she offered me the chance to "have a go" at setting one of her ceramic cabs I bit her hand off,  couldn't believe my luck that she had picked me from all the uber talented artists out there in jewellery land.

This is not my first collaboration but it is the one that I shall remember for teaching me a life lesson or 2 or 3.

The idea was I that I would journal the process of cab to setting to finished piece and share the complete journey with you here.

I had a plan...to complete one cab just to make sure I could do it (I had visions of breaking the cab in 2 at the last minute) and the 2nd would be THE ONE, step by step pictures for you to peruse. However some things never go quite to plan and oh, how I fooled myself.

After 3 aborted attempts I decided to down tools and ditch any thought of a camera. I was letting this cab down horribly, I was not delivering the greatness I had promised. Too fussy, too plain, too contrived, too confident,  not enough confidence…Nerves had got the better of me and panic had set in, I was running out of time!

I had a stiff drink and slept on it!

I'm a weekend maker so it was a whole week before I could tackle it again but the penny had dropped... the cab wasn't the problem I was.  A different approach was called for if I was to get at least one cab set in time with some degree of professionalism.  Armed with a renewed mental confidence it struck me that I was going to have to re-think the technical approach as well, I was not going to be able to treat this ceramic cab in the same way as a glass one - It should have been obvious! Deep breathe and I start again this time with no expectations and no camera, just calm and relaxed...Tah dah - "Dandelion Wind" was born.

She's not how I first visualised her... she's so much better.

Lessons learnt:

1. Panic less, plan time management better.
2. Listen to my own creative voice. 
3. Relax.

I ran out of time to attempt the 2nd one for this post - sorry about that, but I'm confident I can now tackle it with far less anguish!

Health & Safety experts close your eyes NOW.  The aftermath!  I know where everything is, its highly organised really.

Lesley, thank you so much for letting me play with one of your beautiful cabs, for the prods in the right direction and your belief in me!

Manda 
Silver Storm Jewellery