Monday, October 27, 2014

Soldered Wire Prong Bezels

On Saturday, I went up to Sue Sachs studio to take a bezel workshop.  This wasn't just any bezel workshop, it was on setting stones that were unusually shaped.  I asked specifically for this workshop because I have a large collection of cabochons and flatbacks that aren't round or oval.
Sue had a selection of samples laid out for us, including this massive wire prong bezel pendant.  Right away I knew I was going to make a bezel using this technique.  
I brought my entire collection of crystal and fossil cabochons with me but ultimately decided I would set this pretty quartz piece.  I also used the sterling silver wire I already had on hand, which included 16 gauge and 20 gauge (I would not use 20 gauge in the future though as it would need to be work-hardened to be secure).  I do plan to add 18 and 14 gauge to my supplies in the near future.
The first step was to create a base that I would then attach all the prongs to.  I used the 16 gauge wire for this.  Once the ends were filed, I soldered the wire together.
I then cut several lengths of 20 gauge wire and created balled headpins to use as the prongs.
I eyeballed the length of the headpins and cut them down in size and soldered the first two onto the base.
Then the final two prongs were measured and soldered on.
I noticed along the way I must have goofed and I had to flip the base around.  Oops.  But it was still going to work!
I went with a simple arch for the bail.  I also realized at this point that the bezel looked kind of like a baby reaching out to be held.  Hehe.
I gave the bezel a Liver of sulfur bath and then I slid the quartz in and folded the prongs over.  

This was an easy and fun way to set a stone!  Colin is going to finish getting my torch set up in the workshop so that I can begin making these at home.  

What's your favorite way to set unusually-shaped stones?

Happy Beading!

Diana P.

8 comments :

  1. sounds like a great technique, thanks for sharing

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  2. Great post Diana, I am looking forward to seeing the bezels that you create.

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  3. I like that! Very unique and gorgeous!

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  4. Beautiful! You make it looks easy but I know it is not that easy. -

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  5. I like to use this setting for unusual shaped stones as well. You can substitute all different kinds and shapes of prongs for the balled wire prongs too

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  6. Thanks for sharing this, I do like the look of these wire prong bezels - I really should have a go at one!

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  7. Simple but beautiful piece of jewelry :)

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  8. Cool design idea, but I would solder another ring to connect the prongs all together. If I can take the stone out of a setting with my hands, I don't consider it done. Depending on the stone it could be double-sided too!

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